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Posted by: Claire Machamer, December 17, 2008 in Ask the Test Kitchen

SugarspicecakelQ: The beautiful white Sugar-and-Spice Cake on the cover of the December 2008 issue, was just the thing I wanted to take to the Church Christmas dinner. I used the correct cake mix, oven set correctly, measured everything exactly, correct pan size as directed.

The recipe stated a (18.25-oz.) package white cake mix…and to beat together with first 6 ingredients.  I timed the beating as directed.  The batter was so stiff I had to dip it by spoonful into pans.  Anyway, it rose to top of pans and I thought everything was going great.  Took the pans out of oven onto racks to cool.  All three layers fell like a deflated balloon. 

What could have gone wrong?  Should I have prepared the cake mix as directed on the box THEN beat together with the next 6 ingredients?

I used fat free sour cream.  Could that have been the culprit? 

Please help.  I want to try again but with good success.  Thanks! Donna, Farmington, MO

A: I understand you had a little trouble with the Sugar-and-Spice Cake from the December 2008 issue of the magazine. There are so many variables that can affect the end product so I just want to pass along some tips to help you troubleshoot.

You may or may not have followed all of these, so disregard the tips that do not apply to your experience.

Tips:
- Be sure to use ingredients listed in the recipe for the best result:  We tested with Land O Lakes butter (not margarine), Duncan Hines Moist Deluxe Classic White Premium Cake Mix, and full fat sour cream (not light, reduced fat, or fat free.)
- Use a timer to ensure you do not over mix the batter.
- The batter is thick, but don't be alarmed. We poured it (with the guide of a rubber spatula) into the greased (with solid shortening, like Crisco) and floured cake pans, then spread the batter to the edges with an offset spatula.
- Not all ovens are the same. Our cake layers baked in 22 minutes. It may take longer or less time depending on your own oven. Also, I understand your layers deflated once you removed them from the oven to cool- this may indicate the layers weren't quite baked all the way. If you insert a wooden pick in the center and it comes out completely clean, go ahead and remove the layers from the oven. We've also found in our test kitchens that slamming a cabinet door shut, by accident, can result in a fallen cake as well.
Since you said you had used fat free sour cream, we decided to give it a test too. We found the layers to be somewhat tender but very dense. Our layers during the original testing ranged in height from 3/4"-1" and 2 of the fat free layers were slightly shorter than 3/4" high.

Donna, I encourage you to give the cake another try. I feel terrible you're having trouble with the recipe. If there is anything else I can do to help, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Thank you for passing along your experience so that we can better serve you in the future.

Most sincerely,
Rebecca Gordon, Assistant Test Kitchen Director

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Comments

I made this cake last night, twice and still had flat layers. I used 9" instead of 8". would that make then flat?
I went by the recipe and did everything right. something is wrong with this recipe.

Posted by: luwilson | 12/23/2008 at 05:58 AM

Yes, using 9" pans instead of the 8" pans the recipe calls for will definitely make a difference. I suggest you give it another shot and prepare it EXACTLY as the recipe states. Nothing is wrong with the recipe. Happy baking! The Dessert Queen

Posted by: DessertQueen | 12/23/2008 at 07:54 AM

This receipe is wrong. I too planned this cake as my center piece desert and it was a sad as a cake can be. I went over the directions three and four times to be sure I had followed everything exactly, and I had. The receipe left out either water or milk at least a cup of something. The sour cream replaces the oil on the box receipe but there was nothing given to increase the liquid needed for the box cake. The cake was a terrible disapointment!!!!

Posted by: Monica Shoaf Faulkner | 12/27/2008 at 12:23 PM

This receipe is wrong. I too planned this cake as my desert for my Christmas dinner.I was very disappointed . I went over the directions three and four times to be sure I had followed everything exactl. The receipe left out either water or milk at least a cup of something. I would like to try it again.

Posted by: Eve Schultz | 12/27/2008 at 04:46 PM

I agree, something is wrong with this recipe. I tried again and used 2- 9" layer cake pans and the layers were still flat about an inch thick. so I used the previous 3 layers and the 2 layers and made a nice size 5 layer cake that looked presentable enough for Christmas desert. Tasted very good. Maybe to much sour cream?? More eggs? Milk, oil or something. Would love to know what is wrong with this recipe. but also glad to know it not just me. Lu wilson

Posted by: luwilson | 12/28/2008 at 10:06 AM

I baked the white cake on your Dec. cover. The layers were flatter than for a regular cake.I used 8" pans. I had to bake mine longer also until a toothpick came out clean. I used stick margarine instead of butter. I froze my 3 layers wrapped in plastic wrap after they cooled really good. Two days later, on Christmas Eve morning, I took them from the freezer and frosted them. I was surprised at what a beautiful cake they made and it tasted delicious! I served it that night when I had our family Christmas Eve dinner!

Posted by: Charlotte Steenbergen | 01/04/2009 at 12:47 PM

I had great success in making the Sugar and Spice cake for Christmas dessert, and even happened upon two delicious variations. Firstly, ignore the cake mix's recipe, just use the drymix as the starting base. I raise ducks, so I used two large duck eggs and I love vanilla, so I used 1 tsp, but of a strong (double strength)extract. It makes a dense, but moist cake. My variation is this: I finely ground up 1 cup of pecans (used my coffee grinder) and mixed it into approximately 1/3 of the icing. I used this as the filling and kept the plain buttercream for the outside icing. My second variation was the deccoration. I had no rosemary, so I took a cup of icing, colored it green, used a wide butter knife to make "holly leaves" around the upper edge and used cinnamon redhot candies as the "berries". It looked cute! I will always use the pecans in the filling, it tasted wonderful! A KEEPER!!

Posted by: Lisa Haltom | 01/11/2009 at 09:55 AM

Nine-inch pans will always give you flatter layers than 8-inch pans, because a 9-inch pan has a greater surface area. The batter will not be as deep as in an 8-inch pan, so the cooked layers will not be as tall as 8-inch layers.

I have not tried this cake, nor do I intend to: I saw it on the cover and thought it looked delicious, as did my mother and a number of our Christmas Eve dinner guests. That was, until we saw that it (as well as virtually all other cake recipes in that issue) were made with cake mixes. We all agreed that this new trend toward a preference for cake mix is a major error in editorial thinking at the magazine. Southern Living has built its reputation over the past 30-40 years as being the top recipe source for home cooks in the South and beyond.

Why such an aversion to "from scratch" cakes at the magazine these days? The best cake recipes I have are "from scratch" recipes from Southern Living--I've relied on Lane cake, coconut cake with lemon filling, Italian cream cake, hummingbird cake and numerous pound cakes have served me well for years, are simple to make, and turn out EVERY TIME.

It makes no sense to me to start with a cake mix, then add all sorts of extra ingredients to it. If you're going to do that, why not take an extra minute and a half to measure out flour, sugar, salt, and leavening? It's only a money-saver if you have none of those items in your pantry at all. Best of all, scratch cakes don't contain all those additives that cake mixes contain, have better textures, and taste better.

Why can't you give the scratch recipes for the cakes, and then if you absolutely must include a cake mix version, do so as an alternative to the scratch? The magazine has always been known for fantastic cakes, and this past year's issues have been a big letdown in this regard (as well as for a few other reasons.)

Posted by: Lisa | 01/17/2009 at 08:10 AM

thanks for your feedback on the december cakes, lisa. i'm always hungry for criticism -- whether good or bad -- from readers who actually use our magazine. i hear you re: the cakes -- we're trying our best to stay relevant to the inflow of new cooks and subscribers (who tend to be more time-pressed and in need of "streamlined" recipes) as well as continue to be a resource for our long-time readers and more confident cooks (you, obviously, fall into the latter category). some times we get the balance right, other times we miss the mark. that said, i'd love to hear where you think we've missed the mark in the last year, and what you think we've done right (specific examples/stories from our food pages are always a plus). bottom line: our goal is to ensure satisfaction with each and every reader. your honest feedback is invaluable. you can reach me via email or the blog. have a great day. scott

Scott Jones
Executive Food Editor
Southern Living

Posted by: Claire Machamer | 01/17/2009 at 10:38 AM

I had this cake a year ago at a Christmas dinner and loved it. It tasted great and looked even better. I'm going to try it myself this year. Wish me luck.

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