eating my words
Behind the scenes and on the road with Southern Living Executive Food Editor, Scott Jones
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03/05/2008Jefferson would be proud
By Scott Jones
Thomas Jefferson was onto something back in the day when he envisioned the hills of Virginia planted with vines whose fruit would yield top-notch wines. Unfortunately, Jefferson moved on to the great Rotunda in the sky before his dream was realized; however, based on the current state of winemaking in Virginia, I reckon he’d be pretty darn proud.
I’m in the plane back to Birmingham (you Carlin fans out there will appreciate his bit about getting “in” the plane and letting the daredevils get “on”) thinking about all the cool things I experienced the day before--one of my most enjoyable days in “wine country” anywhere in the world.
I was performing a little culinary field study in the towns, er, hamlets (if there’s something smaller than a hamlet, then both spots qualify) of Linden, in Fauquier County, and Huntly, in Rappahannock County, for an upcoming travel story (slated for this September) I’m working on with my buddy, Warner McGowin, who runs our Travel department. The piece will focus on the state’s wine country experience. I don’t want to steal any of the story’s thunder (and it’s gonna be a good one), but I do want to pass along a little info and personal reflection in advance of it hitting newsstands.
Let me begin by admitting that I’m certainly no expert on Virginia wines, but I’ve sampled a few over the years and even judged the annual State Fair of Virginia wine competition a couple of times. That said, there are so many exciting new wines coming out of the state, that it’s nearly impossible to stay on top of things.
Now I realize most folks don’t think about visiting any wine producing region in the world in the middle of winter, but I promise, at least as far as northern Virginia is concerned, it’s rich in its own frosty beauty. So out of Charlottesville I drove yesterday headed north en route to Linden Vineyards and Rappahannock Cellars. Once I broke the traffic vortex of the metro area, I immediately realized one of the advantages to visiting in February: No traffic. This unexpected gift gave me the permission I needed to slow down, chill out, and take in the sights. There are miles of hand-crafted stone walls, sprawling horse farms, breathtaking vistas of the Blue Ridge Mountains, and more cozy little towns along the way than you can shake a stick at.
Another huge advantage to an off-season visit is you get plenty of undivided attention in the tasting rooms, which is pretty sweet. So don’t leave without asking plenty of questions and taking the opportunity to brush up on your tasting and evaluation skills. One more thing, there’s very little, if any, cell phone reception in the more rural areas, so just chuck your phone and concentrate on the amazing views and equally impressive wines.
Linden Vineyards
My first stop was Linden Vineyards, perched near the top of the Blue Ridge mountains. I knew the wines, but had never been to the winery. This time of year, the tasting room is only open on weekends, but owner/winemaker, Jim Law, was nice enough to lead me through a few of his upcoming releases. What an experience. You have to pay a visit if you’re anywhere near this neck of the woods. Highlights were the 07 Avenius Sauvignon Blanc, 04 Boisseau Chardonnay, and 05 Hardscrabble Red (more details and tasting notes to follow in the September story). Jim also turned me on to his 05 Late Harvest Petit Menseng, which was wonderful, but completely new to me. In fact, before yesterday, I’d never even heard of Petit Menseng (which, in case you’re wondering, is the name of the grape used in the wine).
Taking a post-tasting walk through the hibernating vineyard and looking at all the pruned vines resting up for spring’s bud break and eventual harvest later in the fall was very cool – literally and figuratively (even with the sun out at high noon it was still 28º). Even during our tasting, Jim spoke about how he and his staff, like the vines, take time to rest up in January and February, knowing that bottling was just a few weeks away, followed shortly by the rush of spring.
Rappahannock Cellars
Located a few miles down the road from Linden Vineyards is Rappahannock Cellars, another of the area’s well-respected, award-winning wineries. Its tasting room is open daily year-round (except for major holidays). It’s also worth noting that Rappahannock Cellars is part of the Blue Ridge WineWay, along with eight other wineries. The winery offers a number of tasting options (all reasonably priced). Highlights were the 06 Meriwether Chardonnay, 06 Chappell Charlemagne Vineyard Chardonnay, 06 25% Viognier–75% Chardonnay Blend, 06 Cabernet Franc Second Bottling (as with Linden, more details and tasting notes to follow in the September story). Be sure to say hello to proprietor John Delmare, who’s easy to talk to and knows the area like the back of his hand.
Tastings: The Wine Joint
Knowing it took me just under two hours to drive up, I decided to head back to Charlottesville after wrapping up at Rappahannock Cellars. I wanted to get into town before dark, plus I’d spied a neon “Tastings” sign the night before just off the downtown Main Street Mall I wanted to check out. I was hoping to find a place to sample more of the state’s finest without having to buy a bottle or full glass of wine. Turns out, I’d run up on the perfect spot. Tastings butts up to a public garage and is actually a restaurant, wine shop, and wine bar all-in-one. For the record, the garage is your best bet for parking, since street parking is almost impossible. It’ll set you back about two bucks for two hours. Make sure you carry cash because they don’t take debit or credit cards (ask me how I know…). I was greeted by Bill Curtis (“Le Grand Fromage”), who’s been in the wine business “forever.” This dude knows his wine – particularly those made in Virginia. He’s an incredible source of info. I suggest looking him up before heading out on any excursion into Virginia wine country. Bill turned me on to several dynamite wines such as Villa Appalaccia “Toscanello,” Chester Gap Cellars Reserve Viognier, and Thibaut-Janisson Brut sparkling wine (yes, an awesome sparkling wine made just a few clicks from downtown Charlottesville).
What a day! I can’t wait to go back.
Do you have a favorite Virginia wine? If so, I'd love to get your thoughts and feedback.
More Virginia wine resources:Virginia Wine Lover: www.vawinelover.com/newsletters/jan08.html
Monticello Wine Trail: www.monticellowinetrail.com
Loudoun Wine Growers Association: www.loudounwine.com
Virginia Wineries Association: www.virginiawines.org
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Comments
I have read the stuff posted on here i know of some of the winerys mentioned due to tastings and living near them but, no one has mentioned one of my favorites and if your in the charlottes ville area or further up you need to check out Hill Top Bery Farm and Winery in Nellysford Va. it is run by a very nice family and the girls are wonderful Not the SNOBBY Type their wines are different they make true to the fruit wines and have medals attached to some of them. Honeymeads and pear wines and raspberry as well as their other famed one little Heeler it is a blueberry wine. they make a cranberry wine and that was wonderful also (this years tasted better to me than last years it was still very good)you have to experience it the scenery is beautifull it is on the way to cardinal point (that one is before it) and the wintergreen winery before the wintergreen ski resort. breath taking views people really... have lunch at Hill Top on one of their picnic tables under their Huge...patio or visit wintergreen and do some fine dining with their spectacular view just dont PASS this Winery up it is WORTH THE TRIP really...
Posted by:leisa | 04/20/2008 at 04:13 PMCheck out Lovingston Winery in Lovingston, VA. They only make reds and they are fantastic!
Posted by:Lauren | 03/28/2008 at 01:16 PMLove Virginia wines and wineries, and you picked two great ones. Some of my favs can be found on my Christmas wish list on the VAWineDogs blog.
Posted by:Munchkin | 03/13/2008 at 02:58 PMThank you so much for doing a story on Virginia wines. Over the past few years, my husband and I have made it our mission to visit as many wineries in the state as our schedule permits. We still have many to go, but our favorite so far is Rappahannock Cellars. The wine, location, and people make it worth the trip. Our favorite bottle in Virginia, though, is the Cardinal Point A6, a blend of Viognier and Chardonnay. Check it out on your next visit to the state!
Posted by:A Wheeler | 03/13/2008 at 05:49 AMGreat post!
Posted by:russ | 03/12/2008 at 11:37 AMOh my... the list would be far too long to publish, much less try in less than 10 "swoops" through various Virginia wine trails - lol
I just read Jefferson Would Be Proud by Scott Jones and I wanted to throw some of my favorites out there for the next journey into the ever-growing number of Virginia wineries!
First, it should be known that if I had to pick TWO major forces in the Virginia wine industry, it would be Jim Law and Chris Pearmund. Anything these guys touch turns to gold and it's well known around these parts that if they speak or suggest... you should listen! While I've never had the pleasure of meeting Jim, he's been quoted to me a million times (generally something to do with being "winegrowers" and "the best wine being made in the field" and if you think about it, that's true because while it is possible to make a mess out of really good grapes, it's fairly impossible to make really good wine out of crappy grapes - lol)
Chris Pearmund I know fairly well, so I'll speak about him a bit and his Midas Touch :)
Any wine he's had his hands in or sold his grapes for (Meriweather Vineyards - some of the best chardonnay in the universe has come from there) is top notch. He consults, has been winemaker for several wineries, especially those just starting out, and he offers a leg up any way he can help to new wineries. Use of equipment, sale of his high quality grapes, words of advice, free advertisement, just befriending them and welcoming them into the "family" of Virginia winegrowers/wine producers... so he's well-liked for great reason!
He's been involved with Rappahannock, Unicorn, owns Pearmund Cellars and Winery at La Grange, and his high quality chardonnay grapes shine through in some top quality local wines (like Potomac Point) so wineries are able to produce beautiful high end wines while waiting for their "own" grapes to take hold and produce lovely fruit (typically several years - very hard to just hang out and wait and watch them grow!) He's currently working with Brian and Sharon Roeder at the soon to open Barrel Oak Winery (BOW-WOW!) and I've already tasted their chardonnay (in Chris's barrel room as I type) and it's very promising. They will open their property to the public the end of May. (I'll bet press could get in for a private tour sooner though, so consider that if you're interested in following a new winery as they build, plant, crush, bottle their facility and first releases.)
Now... for the personal favorites?
Anything from Pearmund - especially love the riesling (last year's was sold out all over the region AND at the winery by late fall, waiting for new release middle of April, have tasted it from the steel drum and it's another promising and award-winning sell-out for sure!) He's also got an amazing Ameritage (classic Bordeaux style blend) and there's not a bad wine in the bunch. His Petit Verdot is sexy and dark and luscious... beautiful purply color and just the right amount of tannin to be a wonder with food or lovely on its own. His Chardonnay is classically styled with just a hint of butter and just beautifully done. Chances are if you go out there, you'll run into Chris or his right hand extraordinaire - DJ or his warm and sweet sister in law, Sue Raiford. DJ and Sue are intimately acquainted with every aspect of the wines and all the tasting room staff (larger on weekends) is just awesome.
The Winery at La Grange wines are also his. Again, every single one a finesse of the grape. Their Fletcher's Chardonnay is incredible, one of the best in the state for sure. The "Snort" which is their port-styled fortified wine is my husband's favorite wine in the world and while I'm sure it will age quite nicely, it won't be permitted to do so in our house because he drinks it before it's been released a year - lol. At La Grange you will also find some of the best Norton, Merlot, Tannat, Claret and their Bordeaux style blend Meritage... all just to die for and it would take forever to speak on each, so you'll just have to go taste them yourself. The property at La Grange is extraordinary too, so plan to have a look around while you're out there. Grab a bottle of Tannat for your next grilled steak and garlic potato meal and you will not be disappointed!
Another winery where there is NO "hit or miss" involved as every wine is a gem on its own is Potomac Point. They even have two chardonnays, one for the steel lover who wants their chard to be crisp and full of pear/apple, clean and bright... and a reserve chard for those who want the feel and taste of a pat of butter melting on their tongue. We get both and pair them with different foods, but the crisp one is more of a summer wine while the buttery reserve just cries out for sipping in front of a fireplace... which they have there, by the way. This property, again, is just incredible. You taste... you shop... you hang out in the huge room with tables and overstuffed furniture, sort of like that huge common room at a ski lodge, with the fireplace, books to read, different seating areas for chatting. Hungry? They have an in-house chef now, so they do soup and sandwich lunches, buffets every Friday night, Soup for the Soul Saturday nights and then other special events throughout the year. They have an upper outdoor deck, a huge veranda with lots of seating and I can't wait for warm weather to just go hang out there... we've spent the winter hanging out in their great room because the place is just so inviting and staff is warm and welcoming.
They have a cab franc (currently sold out) and a Pocohontas Norton Reserve in a special edition clay bottle made for the anniversary of Williamsburg (nearly sold out) an Abbinato (blend of four Italian varietals - chianti style - currently sold out) - are you sensing a theme here? This place can't even produce enough wine to keep the public from beating down their door for more and they have their own wine club to keep us from crowding the doors 24/7 - lol The owners are just lovely and so devoted to what they're doing and they're doing it really well!
Individual favorites? Del Fosse reserve D'Oriane, Vino Curioso Snake's Den, James River Cellars Syrah, Williamsburg Winery Two Shilling Red, Barboursville Octagon, Burnley Cabernet Sauvignon, Wicked Bottom Chambourcin Reserve, Prince Michel Symbius, Horton Cote d'Orange, Old House an Samhradh, Cooper Noche, Ingleside Sangiovese, and Gadino Cellars Moonrise. There are many more, but that should get you started - lol
Thanks for taking the time to listen to one Virginia winelover's take on some of the best!
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